中國烹飪《川菜》
營養豐富的燉品
Nutrient-rich Dunpin
圖文 汪世容
海味與海鮮是兩個不同的概念，海味一般指海產原料的干品，如海參、魚翅、魚肚、幹墨魚、裙邊、淡菜、金鉤等品種；海鮮指的是海產原料的鮮品，如龍蝦、文蛤、象撥蚌、扇貝、鮑魚仔、海蟹、海蝦、鮮魷等。海味入燉，在內地早已有之，如鴿蛋燉裙邊、墨魚燉老雞等傳統種類燉品，而金鉤、淡菜等海味，多用作配料，可增加湯汁清醇鮮香的風味。海鮮入燉，以前在廣東菜中較常見，不過現在在川菜中也開始流行起來。海鮮菜品可單獨燉制，也可與其它原料混合燉制。由於海鮮講求本味和鮮嫩，因而在與多種原料混合燉制時，應注意各種原料和調料的投放時間，並且恰當掌握火候。最後值得一提的是，海鮮燉菜成菜後，一定要撇去浮油，切忌撒入蔥花等辛辣調味料，以突出其自然清鮮的風味。怎樣巧做海鮮燉菜它有什麼方法和竅門？這要從燉的三種方法講起。一是採用普通的居家燉法，它也稱之為是不隔水的燉法，不隔水燉法是將原料在開水內燙去血污和腥羶氣味，再放人陶製的器皿內，加蔥、姜、酒等調味品和水，加水量一般可掌握比原料的稍多一些，例如一斤原料可加一斤半到二斤水，加蓋，直接放在火上燉制。燉制時，先用旺火煮沸，撇去泡沫，再移微火上燉至酥爛。燉煮的時間，可根據原料的性質而定，一般約二、三小時左右。二是使用隔水燉法，隔水燉法是將原料在沸水內汆去腥污後，放入瓷製、陶製的缽內，加蔥、姜、酒等調味品與湯汁，用紙封口，將缽放人水鍋內。鍋內的水需低於缽口，以滾沸水不浸入為宜，蓋緊鍋蓋，不使漏氣。以旺火燒。使鍋內的水不斷滾沸，大約三小時左右即可燉好。這種燉法可使原料的鮮香味不易散失，製成的菜餚香鮮味足，湯汁清澄。三是使用蒸燉法，它是將裝好的原料的密封缽放在沸滾的蒸籠上蒸燉的，其效果與不隔水燉基本相同，但因蒸燉的溫度校高，必須掌握好蒸的時間。蒸的時間不足，會使原料不熟和少香鮮味道；蒸的時間過長，也會使原料過於熟爛和散失香鮮滋味，此蒸燉方法較多的使用在製作原料高檔的菜品時運用。總之燉制菜品的品種很多，要做出有特色的，就需要根據具體的菜餚去選料、調味、並且掌握火候，以做到湯鮮味醇、突出原料自身特點。由於各地流行的燉制菜品以及方法不盡相同，下面，筆者僅把流行於成都地區的此類海味、海鮮燉菜介紹給大家。 
菜名：皇室全家福
主料：鮑魚2只海參100克魚翅100克對蝦100克蟹柳100克魷魚100克花枝片100克帶子100克
輔料：水發冬菇80克菜膽100克
調料：精鹽6克料酒6克胡椒粒1克蠔油6克糖4克薑蒜茸15克上湯400克
做法：
1.將海參切件汆水備用；菜膽、水發冬菇洗淨，灼熟備用。不粘鍋下油爆香姜、蒜茸，放入鮑魚、海參、蟹柳、魷魚、花枝片、帶子，烹料酒，加入上湯、蠔油、冬菇，適量的鹽、糖，略煮至入味。
2.取一燉缽，將上述原料轉入燉缽內，再加入魚翅以及調味後的上湯汁，把菜品按美觀要求擺放完畢，將裝好原料的密封缽放在沸滾的蒸籠上蒸燉即可上桌。
特點：湯色乳白，鮮香味醇。
By WANG Shi Rong
Seafood and seafood are two different concepts, dried seafood and seafood raw materials generally refers to the dry goods, such as sea cucumbers, shark's fin, Yudu, dry squid, skirts, mussel, Jingou, and other varieties of seafood raw materials refers to the fresh seafood products, such as Lobster, clams, as for mussels, scallops, abalone Aberdeen, Haixie, shrimp, Xianyou, and so on. Into the stew and dried seafood, there has long been in the Mainland, such as Gedan Don skirts, old cuttlefish stewed chicken and other traditional types of Dunpin, Jingou, mussel, and other dried seafood, and more for ingredients, increase the broth Qingchunxianxiang flavors. Into the stew of seafood and vegetables in Guangdong in the past, more common, but now also in Sichuan in the beginning of the epidemic together. Seafood dishes alone stewing system can also be mixed with other raw materials stewing system. As emphasizes the flavor of seafood and fresh, so in a variety of raw materials and mixed stew system, should pay attention to all kinds of raw materials and spices of the running time, and appropriate control heat. Finally it is worth mentioning is that the seafood dishes into Duncai, must Piequ oil slick, must not Saruconghua, such as spicy seasonings, to highlight their natural-fresh flavors. How the art of seafood Duncai what it means and tips This stew from the three methods Jiangqi. First, using ordinary home stewing, it is not Geshui also known as the Don Law, the law is not Geshui Dun raw materials in boiling water in the hot air to Xuewu and Xingshan, who Add earthenware containers, plus onions , Ginger, wine and spices, such as water, and water generally have slightly more than the number of raw materials, such as the Yi Jin raw materials available to a Jinban Erjin water, and with direct Fangzaihuoshang stewing system. Don system, first used Wanghuo boiled, Piequ bubble, and then move on Weihuo Dunzhisulan. Dunzhu the time, according to the nature of the raw materials, generally about two to three hours. The second is the use of Geshui Dun, Ge Shuidun law is the raw material in boiling water, sewage Cuanqu Xing, Add to Porcelain, the earthenware bowl, and green onions, ginger, wine and broth, and other spices, paper seal, Bowl will release the water pan. Pan of water to be lower than the Bowl I to Gunfei ingress of water not suitable, Gaijin lid, not to leak. Wong to fire. Pan of water to keep Gunfei, about three hours to stew about good. This stew of raw materials can not smell the fresh loss, dishes made from full-flavor, the broth Qingcheng. The third is the use of steaming stew, it is with good raw materials will be sealed on the legacy of Zheng Long rolling boil on the steaming stew, the effect and not Geshui Dun basically the same, but the temperature of steaming stew of high school, must have good Steaming time. Steam the lack of time, will make citizens who are not good raw materials and less-fresh flavor; steaming time is too long and too raw materials will also Shulan and lost the taste of fresh incense, this means more steaming stew of raw materials used in the production of the dishes at the use of high-grade . In short stew of many varieties of dishes to make a unique, on the basis of specific dishes to the choice of materials, seasoning and heat have to do Tangxianweichun, highlight the raw materials of their own characteristics. As the stew popular throughout the system and method of different dishes, Below, the author of the popular only in Chengdu of such seafood, seafood Duncai introduced to everyone.
Caiming: Royal Quan Jiafu
Zhuliao: abalone two sea cucumber 100 grams of shark fin 100 grams of shrimp 100 grams Xieliu 100 grams of squid 100 grams of squid-100 grams of scallops 100 grams
Accessory: 80 grams of water, food Donggu gall 100 grams
Spices: salt 6 grams mirrin six grams of pepper tablets 1 g oyster sauce 6 grams of sugar 4 grams, 15 grams of ginger garlic soup 400 g
Practices:
1. Will cut pieces of sea cucumber Cuan water reserve; dishes bile, water, Donggu washed Zhuoshu standby. Bu Zhanguo under the oil Baoxiang ginger, garlic, Add to abalone, sea cucumber, Xieliu, cuttlefish, squid films, scallops, cooked mirrin, adding the soup, oyster sauce, Donggu, the appropriate amount of salt, sugar, slightly Zhuzhiruwei .
2. Stewed for a legacy, the legacy of the raw materials into the stew, add seasonings and after the shark's fin soup on the dishes by placing the end of aesthetic requirements, will be installed on the legacy of raw materials sealed rolling boil on the Zhenglong Steaming stew to serve.
Features: Tangserubai, Xianxiangweichun.
